The Pilgrim’s Tale

 

Monday 2nd June 2008

 

Meeting – Airport at 2.00 p.m.

Arrive in Rome when we get there…

Dinner at a local Restaurant and check in at our Hotel.

 

The gathering at Newcastle was easy – so it should be, with Easy Jet. Just a pity that Veronica couldn’t be with us, but then a broken ankle the day before is about as good an excuse you can get in a hurry…

Those on the right hand side of the plane had brilliant views of Rome as we come in to land.  Those of us on the left had wonderful views of mega housing estates and high rise flats…Just remember the next time you go – sit on the right.

 

We meet Misia for the first time. The journey from the Airport to the Restaurant is excellent.  Can you believe that within 10 minutes from the Airport we learned that the main road along the entire length of Italy, the Via Appia is named after the hills providing the backbone of Italy, the Apennines?  Those ancient Romans must have been seriously homesick to call the hills around here the Pennines…our hills are not as high and not as spectacular. I can’t believe that within seconds we knew that the pine trees along the road from the Airport, provide us with the pine nuts that make pesto sauce…given my ability to not cook, I find that fascinating.  They grow on a tree known locally as the ‘umbrella tree’.

 

One ‘interesting’ bit of information… the Traffic Lights at cross roads are only for decoration! A friend of mine in Rome – Phil Carroll who joined us on Wednesday evening, reckons that the definition of a ‘nanosecond’ is ‘the time lapse between the lights turning red and the driver behind you honking the horn’.

 

On the way into Rome we pass the Circus Maximus – remember Ben Hur…. And the Baths of Caracalla – remember the Three Tenors…this is where they did it….

 

We also passed the Temple where Gregory Peck had to put his hand into the mouth of the Fountain …sorry I can’t remember the movie, but I do remember that he had to tell the truth…we were told that it is rather amazing how many women drag their husbands to this particular spot in the City…

 

As we left the Restaurant that night, Fr Lawrence decided to say ‘good night’ to Pope Benedict – it was around 11.15 when he (the Pope, that is, not Lawrence),   put his bedroom light out – some of us wondered if he’d been watching telly…I suspect he was putting the finishing touches to his latest Encyclical (letter) – I just hope it’s a good one….

 

 

 

Tuesday 3 June

 

After breakfast – walk to St Peter’s for a tour of the Basilica.  After lunch visit the Catacombs – St Sebastian, and the celebration of Mass -  Paul’s Outside the Walls, return to Hotel for dinner at a local restaurant...

 

7.15 – wake up call – hands up anyone who didn’t talk to the recorded message to thank them for the call...

 

How do we get used to ham and cheese sandwiches for breakfast?

 

How do we sum up St Peter’s?  It is just so difficult to imagine this part of Rome as a swamp and then a Stadium in the 1st Century.  10 meters below the present floor level is a street of houses and a ‘pagan’ (i.e. ‘country dweller’) cemetery where St Peter was buried….The Church took around 150 years to build… It’s fascinating to realise that when St Matthew said in his Gospel ‘Thou art Peter, and on this Rock I will build my Church…’ he didn’t actually have this Church building in mind. To be honest, there’s no real certainty that Jesus said it at all…Matthew was probably pushing what seemed like a good idea at the time!

 

As for the ‘English Connection’ at the end of the tour…anyone called Stuart/Stewart is entitled to declare themselves a ‘monarch’.

 

Some rather strange folk decided to climb the ‘8th’ Hill of Rome and enjoyed spectacular views from the Lantern Tower.  We looked down on the Pope’s private Railway Station!  JP2 seemed to enjoy air travel rather than rail…We discovered that there are 2000 people who are regular workers in the world’s smallest State.  It’s only 100 acres and when Pope John 23rd was asked: ‘How many people work in the Vatican?’ He answered: ‘About half’.

 

On the way to the Catacombs we passed Rome’s ‘local prison’. They reckon that you’re not a proper Roman until you’ve spent time in ‘Regina Coeli’…and interesting name for a prison. We call our prisons things like Acklington, Castington, Frankland, Durham and so on …they call it ‘Queen of the Heavens’. 

 

The Catacombs…. I knew that only one tenth of the City’s burial area had been excavated…but I didn’t know that there are over 60 burial sites under the City.  We celebrated our first Mass together in the Catacomb of St Sebastian and remembered our parish communities and particularly those who had died recently, Maria Henderson, Harry Case and Bishop Kevin.  There is something very special being in the presence of the 100 thousand people who died in the first 3 centuries of the Church and were buried in this particular area.  Theresa, our guide was just so enthusiastic and informed.  How can she sound so fresh after 25 years in the job?  She must simply be deeply committed and loves it.  There was a powerful silence during Mass, though the fact that the lights went out every 10 minutes was a bit of a distraction! It truly was a place of memory, celebration and prayer.

 

St Paul’s Outside the Walls… What an amazing building! Did you notice the Paschal Candle? I’m fascinated by it.  Carvings of dragons, sea creatures, birds and all sorts of animals.  I just wonder if our ancestors had a much richer appreciation of ‘Creation’ and how the whole of ‘Creation’ reflects what God wants? I found myself wondering if we haven’t separated ‘religion’ from ‘creation’? I wonder if we stopped talking about ‘Creation’ around the 17th century and began to talk about ‘Nature’. – Just a thought.

 

On 29th June this year, Pope Benedict will inaugurate the ‘Year of Paul’.  Now I think I heard one of our guides say that this was the 2000th year of his ‘conversion’.  I’m not great at maths, but that means he became a follower of Jesus around the age of 8.  OK – there’s a load of discussion as to when Jesus was born – honestly – so I suspect I need to do a bit of homework to find out what anniversary is actually happening.  The priest in charge of St Paul’s had two aims for this year. 1 – to really try and discover whether Paul is actually buried below the Cathedral, and 2 – to sort out the loos!  He happens to be an archaeologist and is happy with what they’ve found over the last couple of years – and the loos are getting there!

 

Remember the evening meal?... Being evicted from one Restaurant and being made welcome at the second.  Chips arrived – bring on Gorman’s from Denton Burn. How on earth can Italians eat chips without vinegar?  It is just beyond me.

 

 

Wednesday 4th June

 

After breakfast take seats in St Peter’s Square for the General Papal Audience.  After lunch, visit St John Lateran and the Scala Sancta…continue to Santa Croce.  Return to hotel and dinner at our local restaurant – Phil Carroll and Lee Barrat – a student at the Venerable English College in Rome - to join us.

 

6.15 – wake up call from the Hotel…Still talking to the answerphone... Set off for St Peter’s at 8.15, can you believe it?  We discovered that there were a couple of women in the group who must have been in the Marines – how awesome they were, finding places about 7 rows from the front of St Peter’s Square… We were surrounded by Mexicans, Italians, Peruvians, Germans and chefs! Who will ever forget Fr Lawrence trying to persuade the chefs to produce pizza at 9.00am?

 

There was something just a bit special hearing ‘St Bede’s and St Joseph’s parishes’ read out in St Peter’s Square.  Our cheer was heartfelt and genuine.  It also struck me that ‘the Church’ is actually the people in the Square, not the totally magnificent building in front of us.  That’s hard to take in…the ‘Ecclesia’ is the gathering, not so much the building.  St Paul is really good on this; his reflection on the ‘Body of Christ’ in his letter to the folk in Corinth is pretty well all about this.

 

It also struck me that we’re facing some tough decisions in our Diocese regarding the number of parishes and priests.  There will be fewer of both in the years to come…but what really matters is the community, not the buildings.

 

I was really struck by the quality of the silence when Pope Benedict spoken in about 10 different languages.  I hadn’t a clue what he was on about… and even in English it was a bit of a struggle. I think he was saying that it was important to read the Scriptures intelligently, carefully and with the insight of scholars…but only so that our reading is an aid to prayer.  I’d be up for that!

 

I did notice that the Bishops, who were sitting up there at the posh end, were given umbrellas to save them from the sun!  But only the ones facing the sun, the others with their back to the sun didn’t get them….they’ll know the next time.

 

Pope Benedict ended his statement by saying that he blessed those present as well as the families and parish communities of those present, especially those who are sick or housebound. There were people around us from all over the world – from Spain, Mexico, Italy, Poland and the US. It really did strike me that the ‘Church’ isn’t so much the totally magnificent building in front of us, but the gathering of people around us.  When we remember all the languages being spoken, all the cultures represented, all the countries present, it really is the ‘ecclesia’ – the ‘gathering’ that matters.  Not too easy for us to appreciate, but being in Square at that time did help us wonder about it. One of the words in the Catacombs was ‘ICTHUS’ the Greek word for Fish, but each letter standing for Jesus Christ, Son of God and Saviour… its our relationship between us and among us that is the Church…..I wonder how many folk in the Square really appreciate that?

 

We were introduced to the word Recycling…with a whole new meaning. Basically it seems to mean that you pinch bits of other buildings, probably built centuries earlier, and beautify your own, spanking new building. So, for example, a big chunk of St Peter’s came from the Pantheon, built in 23 BC, refurbished in the first Century and helped to decorate the ‘new’ St Peter’s from 1550 AD onwards.  Same with the Coliseum, grab what you can and go for it.  Not too surprising to discover that most of the farms built between Newcastle and Carlisle were ‘recycled’ Roman Wall – including Bishop’s House on the West Road.  Just interesting to hear how often the word ‘recycling’ was used, really just posh for nicking things from somewhere else…

 

Interesting to hear that there are more trees in Rome than in any other European City

 

Another fascinating phrase used quite often by Guides – Daniela, Maria and Eduardo – was ‘according to tradition’.  I’m thinking about ‘According to tradition’, St Helen went to Jerusalem and discovered the ‘true cross’…’According to tradition’, we have nails from the Crucifixion, thorns from the crown of thorns and steps from the Temple of Jerusalem – all within a few hundred yards of each other near the Cathedral of St John Lateran in Rome.  It is fascinating, because the phrase ‘according to the tradition’ of the Church is really a constant repetition over many centuries of stories told from hundreds of years ago…they may not actually reflect history.  One of our group asked me if these stories were true.  I didn’t find it easy to answer and simply said:  ‘Can I answer a different question?  The question I want to answer is:  ‘What is a  Myth, what is a Legend?’  I would say that a Myth is something that never happened, but is always true…. (If you’re into all of this, look at anything Joseph Campbell has written about Myths and Legends…). I don’t honestly believe myself that these are the original nails or thorns – but maybe what is important is to reflection on the Suffering and Passion of Jesus and what that really means – so I have no problem with the bits and pieces on show, so long as they lead to reflection and prayer about the original story.  For me, it’s as simple as that.   I’m not too bothered about the bits; I’m seriously bothered about the original events and what they mean for us today.

 

Back to Lawrence for a moment…would you believe there are 45 churches in Rome dedicated to St Lawrence?  I don’t know if that shows a total lack of imagination, or an amazing devotion to this person about whom stories are numerous…What is this about him being barbequed on a griddle?  I suspect Fr Lawrence might want to encourage a revival of devotion in Kenton…

 

I was really interested in the story about Helen giving over part of her house as a place for worship in the early 4th century – and this becoming, eventually, part of the Lateran complex and cathedral.  I’m sure that the early Christians did meet in houses – Churches didn’t exist for a couple of hundred years.  They needed to be ‘discreet’ because of persecution from time to time in Rome and other parts of the Roman Empire.  The ‘Domus Ecclesiae’ – House Gathering – was how it was done.

 

I also felt quite chuffed celebrating Mass next to the Tomb of Pope Leo X111 – the pope who penned the first ‘Social Encyclical’ in 1891 about the rights of workers.  He’d been encouraged by bishops from this country who were worried about the plight of workers in the docks in London and the mines elsewhere – by pressure from bishops in the US who were very concerned about cotton pickers (a new form of slavery) and various other European bishops giving out about those working in heavy industry and not having space for family life, freedom to meet or freedom to worship.  Overall, a good document: ‘Rerum Novarum’ …’On New Things’…

 

Fascinating to bump into Sr Imelda that evening – a religious sister from this country working in Albania.  Imelda is very much into addressing the plight of women involved in ‘trafficking’.  She was in Rome representing the Balkans at a mega Conference on behalf of women who are enslaved in the sex industry.  There is a huge amount going on in this country – often inspired by religious women – to safeguard women brought from Eastern Europe to be involved in the sex trade.  She is an amazing woman.

 

Greetings to Phil Carroll and Lee Barratt at our gathering that evening.  I seem to remember that some of our group did set out looking for various ‘dancing venues’.  Being totally boring, I went to bed!

 

 

Thursday 5th June

 

Morning at Leisure…

Afternoon – a coach journey into the Alban Hills, visiting Castelgandolfo and Frascati.  We celebrate Mass in the Cathedral.  Return to Rome for dinner in Trastevere.

 

At 7.30 a group of intrepid travellers set off for the Vatican Museum and the Sistine Chapel. The timing was excellent, and after an hour and a half we did eventually enter the Chapel.  We wandered through corridors of Tapestries from Brussels, statuary from all over the place, corridors of modern art – quite surprising for the Vatican. There is an amazing Bronze configuration of the 2nd Vatican Council juxtaposed next to a Bronze ‘Pentecost’ – a very clever move. The Chapel itself is awesome, brilliantly restored with the help of money from a Japanese television company – interesting…Michael Angelo completed the ceiling at the age of 33, but didn’t begin the final section, the Last Judgement, until he was in his 60s… Forget the film he did actually paint the ceiling standing up…but he did have to invent a new kind of scaffolding to ensure that he had some idea of perspective, given that he couldn’t see what he’d painted until he was finished, and it took years!

 

One of our group managed to miss what she referred to as ‘the two fingers’…I guess we all knew she meant the ‘Story of Creation’ – but she did have to go back through the whole museum just to make sure she’d seen the bit she really wanted to see….

 

Castelgandolfo is 24k from Rome – a totally different environment, built on the lip of an extinct volcano with a lake – Albano – nestling below it.    When the Pope has few days off he has a fantastic view over the lake and the hills.  Lawrence told me that one former Pope occasionally commented that he didn’t like the view…’because he was overlooked by the English’.  The Villa belonging to the Venerable English College in Rome, Palazzola is directly opposite Castelgandolfo on the other side of the Lake.  I have clear memories of swimming the mile and a half from one side to the other – but it was many years ago…I also remember walking with a group of teenagers from the West End of Newcastle on the morning of 7th August 1978, to view the body of Pope Paul VI who had died at Castelgandolfo the previous evening.  I’ll never forget them asking:  ‘Can we gan and see the deed Pope?’…We did, and I won’t forget it.

 

At lunch time we discovered that one of the more ‘mature’ members of the group had re-enacted one of Marilyn Monroe’s more famous poses – on the steps with the up-draft, in a restaurant the evening before, and that another had filched an original artefact from an Egyptian grave site in the Valley of the Kings – I guess an early version of ‘Lara Croft, Tomb Raider’.  I didn’t realise such respectable women engaged in such activities – maybe I have much to learn….

 

Frascati Cathedral to celebrate Mass…as Lawrence said…’The Churches are getting bigger and bigger…’ Though the Sacristan looked rather ‘sad’ – not a happy woman.  There was an English connection in the Church  - it had been the Titular Church of Cardinal Henry Duke of York (God love him…) who helped to design one of the Chapels in Sta Maria Trastevere – near where we dine later that night.

 

Across the square there was a disgustingly welcoming Ice Cream place where we sampled some of the local produce…Frascati…much better than Tesco’s…

 

Evening Meal in Trastevere…after which Lawrence set off with a number of pilgrims on a wander.  His totally accurate and pin point direction finding meant that the gathering arrived back much later than they expected!

 

 

Friday 6th June

 

After breakfast, visit St Mary Major where we will celebrate Mass. Visit Sancta Pressede and afternoon at leisure.  Dinner in the evening at L’Eau Vive restaurant – owned by a missionary Order of Belgian religious sisters…

 

St Mary Major is one of the 4 main pilgrimage churches in the City.  While celebrating mass we remembered Andrew Shaw – ordained today, Harry Case – Requiem today and Michael Conaty – Golden Jubilee today.  On the grounds that our bus driver was a woman, we also invited one of the women in our group to read the Gospel – and the roof remained on the Cathedral…

 

To get there we went over the ‘English Bridge’ – the only part of the City where traffic travels on the left the same as in GB.  I think it’s true to say that the decision to drive on the left was taken in 1450 by Pope Nicholas V.  He was watching the crowds cross the bridge next to the Castel San Angeli, when over a hundred people were trampled to death by the crowds.  He decided to bring in a rule to walk from the Castle on the left hand side of the bridge… Then, Napoleon, deciding he didn’t much like what the Popes had done, decided to reverse it.  Because GB wasn’t much into Napoleon, we remained on the left.  Isn’t it fascinating that every time Dr Ian Paisley drives on the left hand side of the road, he is obeying the Pope!

 

Actually, if the same Dr Paisley’s car has a European Union flag on the number plates, he is supporting the Immaculate Conception!  The European flag is based on the white stars often seen around the head of Mary in front of a blue background – honestly… My source for this is Bishop William Kenny who used to be the President of CARITAS EUROPA, and he was born and baptised in Benwell, so he must be right.

 

Talking about statues of Mary, I was really taken by that in Mary Major – Regina Pacis – Her left hand is firmly outstretched with the message: ‘No more war’.

 

The ceiling of Mary Major is covered in gold – said to be some of the first gold brought from the ‘Americas’ following the journeys of Christopher Columbus and others from 1492. Another example of ‘Recycling’? I wonder if anyone asked the Aztecs and Incas if they’d mind all their gold being removed to beautify a Church in Rome?

 

Church of Sancta Pressedewhat an absolutely fantastic array of mosaics. And, it seemed to me, that women play a prominent role in the history of this Church – Pudentiana (daughter of a senator to whom its dedicated) and Theodora (mother of the pope at the time, Paschal 1).  Other unnamed women are included in the amazing mosaics from 390 AD. I did like the idea of square halos for those who were still alive when the mosaics were created.

 

There were frequent references to St Paul – even the suggestion that he may have lived in a house below the foundations of this Church.  I guess every building in Rome will be looking for a link with Paul, given that ‘The Year of Paul’ begins in a couple of weeks time on 29th June. Did you know, for example, that he once lodged in a house just off Scotswood Road and now under the car park at B & Q…?

 

In the afternoon we wandered…Piazza Novona, The French Church and Caravaggio, the Pantheon, Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain. It doesn’t surprise me that the current world motorcycling champion is Italian – Valentino Rossi – they’re quite extraordinary negotiating those narrow streets.

 

Evening Meal... Beautifully cooked, presented and accompanied.  It seems this particular restaurant is frequented by Bishops and Cardinals – maybe they’d heard we were in town and took evasive action…

 

 

Saturday 7th June

 

After breakfast, travel to Assisi, Lunch opposite the Basilica of Santa Maria del Angeli where we celebrate Mass.

Check into hotel in the old town.

 

5.45 I went down to the Vatican to post some cards – and couldn’t get in!  It’s closed until 6.30 when a steady trickle of staff appears – there’s a huge chain keeping the early pilgrims at bay. Fancy – it’s like closing Britain! On the other hand, who knows when the Queen goes to bed?  You can stand pretty well below the Pope’s window and wait for him to crash out. A rather elderly jogger began to run around the Square – simply doing what was done 2000 years ago when that particular part of the City was a Stadium – it must be one of the more exclusive morning running tracks in the world! I’ll bet he can’t do it at midday.

 

During the prayer time on the bus, Lawrence invited us to ‘imagine Jesus aged about 12 in the Temple’.  It struck me that he was only around a year younger than his mother when she was expecting him…that’s what happened in those days, with life expectancy only being about 35.  It also occurred to me that there were really two Annunciations:  one from God to Mary, and another from Mary to God… I have a feeling that the Annunciation took months.  Not that an Angel was standing there for months waiting for an answer, more that it can take any of us a long time to work out what the right thing to do is. I did hear once that a child was asked what Mary was doing when the Angel appeared:  ‘Kneeling in front of a crucifix saying the Rosary…’

 

So how do you put a smile on the face of an extremely ‘sad’ looking Poor Clare – give her a collection basket with notes in it…

 

We celebrate mass in a small chapel – a huge contrast to the massive cathedrals and basilicas we’ve been in for the last few days.  The hugely varied shapes and sizes simply remind me that all local Christian communities are different, very different, and their Churches reflect those differences. Once again, the bottom line is that it’s the community that makes up the Church, not the buildings.  Indeed St Francis himself made that mistake in the early years after his ‘conversion’.  When asked to ‘Repair the Church’ – he took it literally, and started mending the roof.  For a man who didn’t think his brothers should live in a monastery, there are some pretty stunning buildings commemorating his presence in different places in this part of Italy.

 

Some phases overheard during the party on the ‘Terrace’...

 

‘Of course there’s a choice of wine, there’s red or nothing, you simply choose the red!’

 

‘I was going to bed, but I do feel obliged to be sociable’.

 

‘I used to go on Bridge holidays, but from now on I think I’m going on Pilgrimage’.

 

‘We should all do what Francis did! 

WHAT? Have a row with your dad and run down the street naked’?

 

 

Sunday 8th June

 

After breakfast, a guided tour in the steps of St Francis and St Clare.  Mass celebrated in the Basilica of St Francis

After lunch, visit the Hermitage on Mt Subiaso, then to San Damiano.

 

6.00 am wondered up to the Castle above the town.  Two other folk there, both English and both complaining about the food in their hotel the evening before!  It was a beautiful morning.

 

Interesting that the only Church in Assisi not affected by the earthquake in 1997 was the one ‘recycled’ from a pagan Temple… Those lads knew how to build Temples.

 

Straight opposite our hotel was the Via Raphael Merry Del Val.  He’d been to the same College as Lawrence and myself – tho’ just a year or two before us (1883-85 when he studied Philosophy).  The best thing he did when he was there was introduce tennis.  He later became Secretary of State to Pope Pius X and was named as the Pope’s delegate to Assisi to oversee buildings etc.  One of these days there might be a Via Lawrence Jones somewhere?

 

We celebrate Mass in the Basilica – a very different experience, 12.00 and hundreds of people milling around in the Church at the time. For the second day running, Misia does an amazing job placating a very ‘sad’ looking sacristan.  We suspect this one was top of the premier division. We have to be finished within 45 minutes.  I have heard of those who have gone over and the books taken from the altar and candles blown out.  We were out of there in 30 minutes – no doubt fear can be an extraordinary motivator.  Just a little difficult to reconcile with the idealism and hospitality of Francis and Clare...

 

San Damiano… the place where St Francis ‘heard’ the voice from the Cross telling him to ‘repair the Church’.  His conversion wasn’t instantaneous.  He’d already broken from his family – freed from being chained up in the cellar of his house by his mother… He then spent time in deep uncertainty, sleeping in a ditch, curled up and in darkness – wondering all the time what he was meant to do.  No wonder he could come up with phrases such as:  ‘All life must sing of pilgrimage and exile’.

 

 

Monday 9th June

 

After breakfast, en route to Ciampino we visit Greccio – lunch followed by celebration of Mass.

Depart Ciampino 8.50pm arrive Newcastle 10.55pm

 

6.00am – visibility very poor on the top of the hill!  Yet there is a Japanese tourist taking photographs of shapes in mist. Fascinating.  I’m sure I read somewhere that this is a particular genre in Japanese art – the mist is a symbol of mystery, disguising the future and what it holds…

 

Greccio – the place where St Francis ‘invented’ the Crib. I think it’s true to say that he began with a ‘live’ play to bring the message home to villagers.  So few people could read or write that mosaics and paintings, frescoes and statuary were the ‘bible of the poor’.  Francis didn’t just look to bringing the Infancy story into people’s imagination; he also developed what we now call the Stations of the Cross.

 

We all need to visual and the images to provoke our imaginations.  We also need to, occasionally, look beyond the visual to search more deeply for the meaning.  Someone exercised their imagination when the decision was made to declare St Clare as the patron saint of television…given she lived 700 years before it was invented.

 

What an amazing view from the Restaurant Terrace – again another place visited by Pope John Paul 11 – but then there weren’t too many places he didn’t visit! 

 

We didn’t get back in time to participate in the Blaydon Race – the 9th of June and that – but I have no doubt that the experience will have been very special for each one of us in different ways.

 

Thanks to all, especially Paul, Lawrence and Misia… no doubt she’s even now explaining the mysteries of the Roman Empire to American tourists...

 

I can’t believe that I’ve not heard the name Constantine mentioned for 5 days, nor have I seen a picture or statue of St Sebastian – and, you know, I’m  not too worried..

 

 

 

 

Jim O’Keefe 2008 Pilgrimage RomeAssisi 13.6.08